The Spring-Summer 2023 Collection navigates the continuous redefinition of geography, fashion, and imagination—all attributed to womanhood.
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Looking back on the past has always been a way to move forward. In the world of fashion, this rings true in the form of reviving archival pieces or reworking iconic silhouettes and themes to fit the contemporary scheme of things. Reflecting on history is an individual and communal process; like fashion, it offers a new take with every look.
Dior’s Spring-Summer 2023 Collection is a sartorial discourse on the female experience of asserting power through history. Catherine de’ Medici’s power—in fashion, at least—was reiterated by Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri through the pieces. The former’s innovations, which included the heels, corset, and Italian lace, have become important in the world of fashion. As Italian women who both have made their mark in France, Medici and Chiuri now share this feat.
History in the Eyes of Women
In similar fashion to Medici, the creative director reimagined them and added a new twist and dimension.
The first look of the night already offered two out of the three themes that encapsulated the whole collection—one, a nod to Medici’s contributions; and two, a homage to the traditional raffia coats with motifs of fowl and floral elements.
The guêpière from the different looks (at times hidden; at the times the star) were a mimicry of the wide skirts from Medici’s time.
Dior managed to incorporate the silhouettes of before as actualized pieces for tomorrow.
History in the Map of the City
The last, and perhaps the most interesting part, is the new toile de Jouy prints from the Maison. Looking closely, it is the map of France in an angled perspective created by Michel-Étienne Turgot & Louis Bretez. Chiuru described this map as a physical and mental one which allows the individual donning it to feel a little closer to the city of Paris. You are not just in the city; you are wearing the city.
As the Maison continues to explore the world in the eyes of femininity, Dior invites to realize our power if only we can connect ourselves to others, and the past to our futures.
