For London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024, Erdem transcends the screen and invites us to step out of our neon-lit spaces and futuristic fantasies that permeate our modern lives
Nestled amidst the grandeur of the British Museum’s Ionic columns, Erdem Moralioglu, far from the confines of pixels and screens, sought to top the digital age’s binary code. In London, the stage was set for a rather analog spectacle. Erdem’s knack for temporal escapism was on full display, proving there’s still enchantment in the touch of fabric and the elegance of beauty’s history.
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Erdem, whose craftsmanship harks back to an era when every stitch could carry a secret message or a well-guarded scandal, is a welcome contrast to our tech-savvy world. While others are busy imagining interstellar voyages and AI-driven futures, the brand takes us on a carriage ride through the annals of fashion history, by way of tangible textures and tactile sensations.
The designer drew inspiration from a remarkable muse—Deborah “Debo” Cavendish, the Duchess of Devonshire and a 1950s icon. His privilege? Unfettered access to Debo’s treasure trove, an archive of antique textiles and Chatsworth’s historic chintz curtains.
Imagine antique chintz curtains, relics of a bygone era, reborn as quilted opera coats—why not turn drapes into dresses? They are sustainable fabric, after all. Voluminous skirts swayed, evening dresses whispered, and models graced the runway in iconic patchwork trapeze opera coats. Velvet rose devore jacquard and waxed cotton interwoven, creating a quilt of surfaces. Just call Erdem the virtuoso of textile and design.
Models paraded with curious footwear, a nod to Debo’s love for rare chicken breeds. Incorporating chicken-inspired elements into the footwear was the designer’s way of paying homage to Debo’s quirky passions while infusing a sense of playfulness into the collection. It’s a delightful and unexpected choice that adds a touch of whimsy to his designs, showcasing his ability to find inspiration in the most charming and unconventional places.
The runway witnessed a procession of dresses featuring full skirts, adorned with opulent regal fabrics. These dresses were meticulously crafted from delicate tulle and adorned with floral fabrics, creating a captivating patchwork effect that seemed to draw inspiration from curtains. These ensembles were veritable playgrounds of imagination—some boldly embraced structured bodices, others glided with small capes or strutted about with leather gloves as their confident companions. With cheeky charm, the collection also showcased lingerie dresses bedazzled with precious jewels.
In delightful contrast, the collection, in reference to the Duchess’ love for Elvis, included rockstar-inspired leather jackets, studded and adorned with tassels. The focus shifted to blazers, each a unique creation—structure here and some feminine creativity there, especially lace that drapes around the waist.
Introducing a heartfelt nuance, the dresses that closed the show were a tribute to Debo’s legacy. Crafted from curtains that had once graced her abode, these dresses bore the loving embroidery work of her great-granddaughter, Cecily Lasnet, connecting generations through the artistry of fashion.
In Erdem’s SS24 collection presented during London Fashion Week, there’s no need for VR headsets or holographic displays here; just a keen eye for detail and an appreciation for the finer things in life. In Erdem’s world, the future may be digital, but the past is ever-present—and it’s not the Dark Ages.
Photos: ERDEM (via Instagram)