In his debut for Dries Van Noten, the creative director weaves a gender-fluid narrative through cinematic contrasts and impeccable craftsmanship
How does a man dress, and does it even matter? Fashion has never belonged to one gender, and why should it? A dress is a dress, just as art is art. Its essence lies in the artistry, not the label. Julian Klausner’s debut collection for Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2025 Menswear collection takes that ethos to heart, embracing embellishments often boxed in as “feminine” and reimagining them in a way that feels exciting, an expression of creativity for creativity’s sake.
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Cinema weaves modestly through Klausner’s inspirations, particularly the energy of William S. Burroughs’ The Wild Boys and its 2017 film adaptation. Layered over this are nods to historical eras, from the decadence of the Renaissance to the refined tailoring of the 1930s—a timeline of influence colliding in a dreamy, gothic haze.
The collection doesn’t ask how men should dress—it declares that the answer lies in romance. Lavish floral brooches, billowing lavallière collars, duchesse satin coats, and dramatic sleeves intertwine with the simplicity of hunting fabrics, structured sailor pants, and timeless peacoats. Klausner’s interplay of contrasts—feminine and masculine, soft and structured—shows the beauty of another era while remaining distinctly modern.
The cinematic, or theatrical, quality of the collection frames Antwerp’s storied port history as a poetic backdrop. The models, styled as a rakish, youthful gang, embody this duality: delicate pussy-bow blouses and feathered collars paired with utilitarian accents like shoelace belts, bike-messenger leggings, and scuffed boots. The effect is a gender-fluid vision where convection takes a backseat to artistry.
Outerwear became the star of Klausner’s collection, transforming coats into pieces for experimental craftsmanship. Military jackets, lined in vibrant violent or amber silk fil coupé, erased the distinction between toughness and decadence. Poplin shirts, adorned with removable hand-embroidered collars, added a personal touch, allowing for adaptability.
Accessories deepened the narrative, with fresh flowers tucked into buttonholes and lapels, their ephemeral beauty offset by dainty shoelace belts in white and red. Even the models’ dark eyeshadow and headscarves added an intimacy that balanced the drama.
Julian Klausner’s debut is a declaration of the power of contrasts. Masculine silhouettes are softened by romantic details, while utilitarian accents find an elegance in craftsmanship. Much like cinema, the collection shows that the most captivating stories come from the collision of opposites. Dries Van Noten’s Fall/Winter 2025 Menswear feels like a dreamscape—a world where past and present, masculinity and femininity, utility and opulence come together in cinematic harmony.
Photos: DRIES VAN NOTEN
