At Milan Fashion Week, the artistic director celebrated Fendi’s centenary with appearances by Heart Evangelista and Pia Wurtzbach
Spotted front and center at the Fendi S/S25 show were two familiar faces: Heart Evangelista and Pia Wurtzbach, both showcasing the new collection and carrying the latest it-bag: the Peekaboo Soft. Lighter than a whisper, but with enough presence to make a statement, it’s clear that the house has mastered the art of chic practicality. But don’t let the bag steal all the attention—Kim Jones is here to remind us that time and fashion are inextricably linked, and his latest collection is proof.
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As the Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear put it, “The foundations of how women dress today and, in many ways, how we think are in the 1920s.” With the Fendi centenary looming large, Jones weaves together a collection that’s both forward-looking and nostalgic, pulling threads from the Jazz Age and the modern-day alike. It’s a revelry of Fendi’s history, but without any stuffy sentimentality—“The Great Gatsby” meets today’s power woman, one who’s as likely to pick up a hammer as a handbag.
1925 isn’t just the year Fendi was founded—it’s also the year the Art Deco in Paris redefined what modernity meant. This era was when style and attitude intertwined, shaping how women navigated life. Jones nods to this history while crafting clothes for women who “do”, not just “are.” There’s movement in every piece, a lightness that suggests ease, but the craftsmanship speaks to the kind of excellence that only comes with a century of experience.
The collection blurs the lines between ready-to-wear and couture, melding hand-made and machine-made, with a louche elegance. Embroidery that looks like it could weigh a ton somehow floats, perfectly placed on simple tees and silk slips. Soft suede and shearlings wrap around the body like a second skin, with robe-like shapes giving way to t-shirt silhouettes cut from croco suede. And while tea dresses and dancer’s slips swirl in silks and organza, Fendi grounds the ethereal with a surprising collaboration—Red Wing boots. It’s a twist on opposites—delicate dresses paired with rugged footwear, a masculine mainstay since 1952.
But what ties it all together are the bags—because let’s be honest, what’s a Fendi show without a little bag envy? The Mamma Baguette is back and bigger than ever, literally. Taller, wider, and just begging to be grabbed, it’s reimagined for the modern woman who needs her bag to hold more than just lipstick and good intentions. Like the collection itself, the bags are both structured and unstructured, effortlessly chic yet painstakingly detailed.
In true Fendi fashion, this collection makes a statement through the idea of time. And if Jones’ vision for S/S25 is anything to go by, that statement is one of modernity that’s touched on timelessness. Every element feels like a small but meaningful tribute to Fendi’s matriarchal legacy, a house that has always been mindful of the women who shape the world, much like Evangelista and Wurtzbach.
