Without a creative director, Givenchy reflects its founder’s wardrobe in a present-day lens that takes on the new man for their FW24 menswear collection
With the aftermath of Creative Director Matthew M. Williams’ departure, Givenchy harks back to its roots with its Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection for their Paris Fashion Week presentaion. With the absence of a creative director and a stronger in-studio presence, the collection is perceived as a transitional phase, deeply rooted in the identity of its founder. Less centered around a specific individual and more focused on an ideal, the House finds inspiration in the concept of the gentleman for the new man.
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For this season, Givenchy opts for an intimate presentation, choosing the salons of 3 Avenue George V, where the brand’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy, crafted his designs from the late ’50s until his retirement in 1995. The setting reflects a deliberate return to the origins, emphasizing the importance of the House’s historical space in the creative process.
In the eyes of Givenchy, Hubert de Givenchy himself personifies the essence of the gentleman. The iconic blouse blanche is reimagined as soft workwear, and the collection features suits and coats with armholes, nodding to the founder’s love for capes, all in the beloved sapphire hue. The runway sees the revival of an archival scarf, casually draped on models in true Givenchy fashion. The reintroduction of the infinity G monogram and the 2G emblem on buckles signifies a deliberate nod to the brand’s foundational elements. Further, every model wears the signet ring he traditionally wore.
The collection stitches together the duality: the refined and casual, the flamboyance and nonchalance, the elegant and everyday, all infused with a distinct Parisian chicness paired with the contemporary man. Here, military staples appear in flight and jump jackets with luxurious materials: the strategic warmth of wool to the tough demeanor of leather and the wild charm of ponyskin. The wardrobe of the imagined gentleman reflects a thoughtful curation of diverse styles, reflected for the new man.
In a closer look, surface decorations abound featuring shearling, synthetic hair embellishments, and chandelier motif themselves are interpreted in metallic embroidery bedazzled with crystal and pearls, or in jacquards through prints. Footwear includes slim loafers, mules, derbies, and collapsed-heel sneakers in velvet finishes. The Voyou bag undergoes a rugged transformation, adorned in grained buffalo leather and cozy shearling. Its smaller counterparts echo an equestrian vibe, marrying nature-inspired textures with utilitarian constructs. On the other hand, the Pandora bag transforms into a multitasking friend, boasting pockets in rich textures.
Givenchy confidently challenges traditional gender norms, blending masculine and feminine elements. Sharp, structured silhouettes share the stage with robust boxy fits, while motifs and sequins inject a bold edge for a collection rooted in tradition. Yet, Givenchy wasn’t a traditional man; he was an influential one.
The transition of a fashion house’s creative director signals a pivotal shift in the brand’s identity. In the case of this collection, which defies a linear direction, the optimal approach involves revisiting the aesthetics of the founder and breathing new life into them. This strategy not only pays homage to the brand’s origins but also propels it into a fresh era. Givenchy’s Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection embraces the exact elements that catapulted the House to greatness, rekindling the spirit of Hubert de Givenchy and celebrating the evolving gentlemen.
Photos and Featured Image: GIVENCHY