Sabato De Sarno’s first Cruise collection for Gucci is inspired by a metropolitan chicness of the city it walked: London
Sensuality has so far been the core of Sabato De Sarno’s time at Gucci. His wardrobe consists of classic pieces made new for a contemporary time, a much-needed palette cleanser for the Italian house. The collection is the creative director’s fourth show, third womenswear, and the first cruise. With a setting like London, has De Sarno convinced us all simplicity is successful?
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De Sarno likes to play with movement and texture: shorts, mod jackets-cum-dresses, and flowy gowns enamored in mesh detailing, pleated fabric, and floral embellishments. This goes beyond the fantasy, and into the reality, not for the lack of whimsical and quirky—it’s still there, yet in terms of ideation.
On the new collection, De Sarno says, “After having expressed my ideas of desirability and sensuality, this is another piece of me, more romantic, more contradictory.” When viewed into the romantic lens of the London aesthetic and De Sarno’s narrative, it’s quick to see.
Founder Guccio Gucci was a porter at The Savoy Hotel in London, where he was inspired by how the upper-class live. Then, history, in its colorful purpose strike in questionable prose, was made beautiful and dashing—at least, in its wearable aesthetics. “I like taking something that we think we know and breaking away from its rules, taking it as far as it can go, without ever distorting it. Bringing it towards its opposite and finding harmony,” De Sarno explains. Thus, the inspiration from London was born into the creative director’s play.
Playful nods to classic British fashion were evident in the tartans, pussy bows, and tailored trench coats. These elements paid homage to the show’s London setting while upholding De Sarno’s minimalist vision. The incorporation of these traditionally British styles added a layer of depth and cultural resonance to the collection.
In styling and accessories, the collection emulated the laid-back look of British models from London’s 2000s, evoking the spirit of icons like Kate Moss with disheveled locks, oversized shades, and generously proportioned bags. De Sarno’s trademark Gucci Russo red and patent leather made notable appearances, accompanied by relaxed denim, daisy prints, and tan suede, channeling an aesthetic of effortlessness.
By integrating British elements within a minimalist framework, he has created a collection that feels stronghold to a specific time that lines up to the general present. It’s nothing groundbreaking or new, but perhaps it’s what the Italian house needs, at least for now. The Cruise 2025 collection attempts to pay homage to Gucci’s past while envisioning the path forward, suggesting that simplicity, when executed with a degree of imagination, could potentially yield success.
Photos and Featured Image: GUCCI
