Untamed roots of the Wild West promise a new horizon for Louis Vuitton as Pharrell Williams carves a distinctive and raw niche for the Maison
Opening up Paris Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter presentations was Louis Vuitton, bringing along with them a revelation: the sun rises for good people. For his third show at the Maison, Creative Director Pharrell Williams saddles up to dive into the rugged roots of American workwear. With the grit of the brand’s craftsmanship, he’s set to lasso the essence of sturdy, hardworking style from the untamed terrain of the American West, igniting and putting forth its relationship with the indigenous.
RELATED: Louis Vuitton Unveils Men’s SS ’24 Collection in the Philippines
Heart beats raw
Country and Western motifs ride the fashion frontier as Pharrell delves deeper into the roots of the American Western wardrobe. Craftsmanship and embroidery techniques unfurl, showcasing the iconic symbols of American Western dress in this journey. With travel as the heartbeat of the house, the exploration of workwear’s origins steps into the spotlight.
The Louis Vuitton show unfolded with an undeniable rawness against the stark backdrop of a Virginian mountain range, first warm in the orange sun and then lastly blanketed in white snow. True to form, Williams curated an exceptional soundtrack that accompanied the presentation. Elevating the experience, the soundscape featured live performances by indigenous artists, adding a layer of authenticity and cultural resonance.
Modern cowboy for the new frontier
The Louis Vuitton man undergoes a dapper transformation through a country-inspired lens. Workwear evolves into tailored sophistication, featuring vaquero jackets with hand-embroidered metallic florals, work jackets adorned with multi-color sunbeam beading, and suits boasting classic pinstripes. Dungarees, the epitome of workwear, find a place of prominence in fine tailoring fabric. This is not the Louis Vuitton we know, but we’re excited to get to know him.
Denim giddy ups, subtly iced with pearl-and-sequin floral embroideries, gunmetal-washed to perfection, and adorned with sunbeam and rain beading. Chaps are made in fringed leather, embellished with Monogram and florals. Leather jackets and trousers make way for the embossing of the image of saddles.
Original cowboy paintings find new materials, transformed into a jacquard tapestry that graces raincoats, further integrated into a rope-embroidered jacket or prints on garments bearing the weathered charm of the sun. Louis Vuitton collaborates with Timberland, presenting a limited-edition American work boot featuring gold LV Monogram details. This is cowboy craftsmanship refined for the modern frontier.
Sacred stories
As the final notes echoed, a troupe of musicians from the Dakota and Lakota nations took the stage, providing a powerful conclusion to the presentation. Dee Jay Two Bears, hailing from the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe, artfully engineered an interchange that reverberates the longstanding connection between Pharrell Williams and the Dakota and Lakota nations over a decade.
With these artistic spirits, the collection transforms, evolving into a tableau—a living expression through which the artists breathe life into their culture. The Speedy bag, messenger bag, and travel tote stand as robust symbols adorned with the Dakota Flower motif, offering a poignant tribute to the untamed roots of nature. Executed with meticulous care and hand-painted with parfleche motifs, the Keepall bags draw inspiration from ancestral artworks, telling stories of tipis and carrying the sacred Topa cross—a profound symbol representing the four winds of the Earth. This infusion imparts to the collection a primal, elemental connection—an evocative link to the very soul of the Wild West.
Cultural revolution
The significance of Native Americans taking the forefront in a prestigious luxury house like Louis Vuitton, particularly within the thematic context of the Wild West, beats the superficial. It signifies a profound recognition and celebration of cultures that have long been marginalized. This marks a bold stride in cultivating inclusivity and recognizing the power of narratives that have indelibly shaped the American experience.
By placing Native American artists at the helm, Louis Vuitton not only honors the authenticity and resilience of these communities, but also sends a resounding message that their stories deserve a prominent place in the global narrative of luxury and fashion. This collaboration becomes a bridge between worlds, fostering understanding and appreciation, making it a poignant chapter in the broader discourse of cultural recognition and unity.
The sun also rises
One can’t help but wonder about the path Louis Vuitton will tread under William’s creative vision.
His unique approach has undeniably carved a distinctive niche for the Maison, now finding itself embracing a more down-to-earth, raw aesthetic that resonates with the untamed spirit of the American West.
The impact of this departure from the norm could be monumental in a landscape where European brands often hold fashion in high regard. Pharrell Williams’ influence may spark a renaissance, prompting other fashion giants to reevaluate their approach, inviting a new era where cultural narratives and authentic stories take place, pushing a fresh perspective of style. The sun has risen for good people, and the horizon appears promising.
Photos: LOUIS VUITTON
