The Dior Cruise 2025 show traveled to Scotland for an exploration that spotlights Mary Queen of Scots and the founder himself
For Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s Cruise 2025 collection is a historical pilgrimage. This year, the destination was the lush gardens of Drummond Castle in Perthshire, Scotland—a site that holds a special place in the Maison‘s heart. In 1955, Christian Dior presented his work here, winding a connection that Chiuri deftly explores and expands upon 70 years later.
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Embroidering Cultural Connections
It is not just the location that took precedence. While Louis Vuitton extracts settings for their Cruise showcases, the Creative Director spotlights a woman in history: 2022’s Spanish flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya and 2023’s Mexican painter Frida Khalo. For this collection, Chiuri spotlights Mary Queen of Scots.
Scotland’s symbolism is sewn into the story of the collection. The unicorn and the thistle, national emblems of the country, are reimagined in heraldic embroidery, giving a fresh exterior to the classic Millefleurs motif. This also evokes Queen Mary, who famously used embroidery as a means of communication through tapestries during her captivity in England, when her ability to write was severely restricted.
A map of Scotland features prominently in the collection, literally sketching out the cultural and collaborative exchanges that have shaped this line. This cartographic approach pays tribute to tartan, a fabric that has become a staple, whether romantic or punk, thanks to icons like Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. These designers have elevated tartan from traditional Scottish wear to a global fashion phenomenon, and Chiuri’s homage feels both novel and respectful.
A Highland Fling
The silhouettes in this collection play with proportions and layers played in contradiction and juxtaposition. Exaggeratedly wide sleeves peek out from under little dresses with gathered skirts, while bustiers shimmer with elaborate embroidery. Iridescent pieces are often adorned with pearls, and lace collars add brightness to black garments. Tartan appears in lightweight materials, celebrating the kilt in various forms, and collaborated with Scottish designer Samantha McCoach of the brand, Le Kilt.
From dresses of diverse lengths to voluminous coats and capes with oversized hoods, the collection offers a modern look on traditional Scottish attire. Wellington boots, a practical nod to the Scottish climate, make frequent appearances. Meanwhile, small jackets borrow from menswear, with their gray tones and the iconic Bar jacket flaunts black velvet Brandenburg buttons. The sporran belt, traditionally worn with kilts, is poised to become the new must-have accessory.
A Sojourn in Scotland
Dior’s Cruise 2025 collection is a celebratory tapestry of Scotland, both place and icon, with the breathtaking scenery of Drummond Castle providing an exceptional backdrop. The presentation interweaves fashion, history, and the natural beauty of the Highlands, with Christian Dior and Mary Queen of Scots serving as inspiration. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s vision is an artful draping of a finely tailored kilt, lifted against misty moors.
Photos and Featured Image: DIOR
