Fashion gets a lift in sculpted shapes and puff power. Balloon hems, puffed pants, and oversized silhouettes are back—but with a more refined look
The revival of ballooned silhouettes in Resort 2025 pieces signals a dramatic return to the brazen excess of the ‘80s, but with an updated version that combines structure and softness in unexpected ways. What defined the era of shoulder pads and maximalist silhouettes now finds itself reinterpreted through the lens of sophisticated architectural fashion, where volume and shape are designed with precision rather than excess for excess’s sake.
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Big shoulders, oversized silhouettes, and bubble hems were symbols of a time when fashion was all about drama. After all, the ’80s are defined by opulent excess, loud statements, and exaggerated proportions. Yet, its current iteration is a fine-tuned balance of power and fluidity. Designers are revamping the shapes of the decade, ditching the flamboyant in favor of a more artistic approach. Bubble hems no longer demand attention—they softly inflate and tighten in precisely the right places, adding drama without going crazy. Balloon sleeves are simplified with fitted cuts, creating effective volume rather than just size.
Architectural fashion bursts into the scene as designers reimagine the interplay of shape, structure, and fabric. Designers curate each silhouette like a work of art—clothing doesn’t just sit on the body, but shapes and molds it, creating a new understanding of form. Puff-leg pants take on sculptural qualities, where the volume at the thigh tapers down for a more flattering finish. Every pleat is formed, as every crease is intentional, adding a sharpness to the otherwise playful shapes.
The power of proportions plays a major role in this comeback. The beauty of bubble hems and oversized silhouettes lies not just in the boldness of their size but in how they interact with the more fitted elements that anchor them. A puff-sleeve blouse is balanced by a high-waisted pencil skirt. A bubble-hem skirt is grounded by sleek trousers. It’s a calculated balance of power and softness—allowing for whimsy while maintaining an air of sophistication. These juxtaposing proportions create a harmony that brings refinement to what might otherwise be considered an over-the-top style.
Fabrications play an equally important role in this trend, as glossy satins, taffetas, and voluminous organzas imbue each garment with a tactile dimension. The garments feel dynamic, almost sculptural, as they move with the body. These materials elevate the extravagance, making it feel more refreshed. Rather than loud and clunky, they feel content and realistic, all while maintaining their core principles: boldness, beauty, and audacity.
This season, fashion pumps up—not just with size, but with intention. We’re floating into a redefined era of ‘80s fashion, where proportions, shapes, and structure inflate to create looks that take off. From ballooning sleeves to sculpted puffed pants, this trend dials down the excess but takes off to new heights without looking down.
Photos: LOUIS VUITTON, LANVIN, COPERNI, HELMUT LANG, JW ANDERSON, STELLA MCCARTNEY, THE ROW, MONSE, CAROLINA HERRERA, and KHAITE
