A First Lady in focus a second time around, the subtext of her fashion served as an armor and an invitation to keep us guessing in political power dressing
Why do we care what a First Lady wears? Because, like it or not, fashion is the unsanctioned language of political optics. From Jackie Kennedy’s Chanel suits to Michelle Obama’s J.Crew cardigans, what the First Lady wears speaks volumes—often more than a policy paper. Her wardrobe must embody grace, diplomacy, and, yes, a touch of relatability. Beyond politics, these sartorial choices can propel a designer’s career into the stratosphere or spark heated discourse. In Melania Trump’s case, the stakes are always higher. After all, she serves as the administration’s unspoken PR strategy: the face that’s supposed to soften the edges, even when the rhetoric gets sharp.
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At Donald Trump’s second inauguration as the 47th U.S. president, Melania’s outfit exemplified polished armor. Peering out from under the dramatic rim of her navy wool boater hat, designed by milliner Eric Javits, she exuded an apparent grace. Her tailored double-breasted coat in navy silk wool—a creation by Adam Lippes—cinched her waist, while bare legs and stiletto heels brought a no-nonsense bite to the ensemble. The First Lady marched, as if ready for battle or an artful standoff.
Javits, designer of the boater hat, described working with Melania as a “great honor”, adding that she turned a simple design into a “wow” moment. Lippes reverberated the sentiment, underlining the importance of showcasing American craftsmanship. Whether their creations garner love or hate, these designers know one thing: when the First Lady wears your work, it becomes a statement, even if you don’t believe in it.
The Hat That Hid a Thousand Thoughts
The boater hat covered her eyes, nearly obscuring her face—a striking choice that practically begged for interpretation. Was this a deliberate nod to her enduring mystique, a reminder that Melania Trump has always been something of an international woman of mystery? From her tightly controlled public appearances to her signature stoic expression, she’s long favored distance over intimacy with the media. Or was the hat’s shadow an act of self-preservation, shielding her from a world that’s often too eager to dissect her every move?
Nevertheless, the hat’s effect was undeniable, creating an enigmatic aura—or perhaps doubling as a practical shield. When her husband leaned in for a congratulatory peck, the hat acted as an unspoken barrier, a diplomatic buffer. Her makeup stayed flawless, her message crystal clear: she’ll play her part, but always on her terms.
A Tale of Two Inaugurations
At the 2017 inauguration, Melania stunned in a pastel-blue suit by Ralph Lauren—who became the first fashion designer to receive the Presidential Medal of Freedom under the Joe Biden administration—that paid homage to Jackie Kennedy. Critics expecting gaudiness were disarmed by the sophistication of the look. Yet, this is the same First Lady in 2018 who donned that Zara jacket emblazoned with “I REALLY DON’T CARE, DO U?” during an immigrant child detention center in a Texas border visit, as a response to the democratic party’s criticism. If the blue Ralph Lauren was a wink at diplomacy, the Zara jacket was a punch to political niceties.
For her second term debut, Melania’s image shifted. The coat’s structured silhouette and military undertones hinted at fortification, not aspiration. It was tougher, more defensive. Even her choice of designers—both relatively under-the-radar—felt like a tactical maneuver. Compared to her first, this look felt less about unity and more about a sense of control. Lippes and Javits, both based in New York, may lack the global recognition of Ralph Lauren or her usual European favorites like Dior and Dolce & Gabbana, but their work for this moment is understated, restrained, and deliberate.
Critics, Comparisons, and Carmen Sandiego
Of course, no Melania look escapes scrutiny. Some praised her minimalist statement, while others likened her to Carmen Sandiego or McDonald’s the Hamburglar. Snark aside albeit referential to iconic fictional characters, Melania dressed impeccably, although in a way that left room for interpretation—maybe intentionally so. Contrast this with Ivanka Trump, who made her own return in a forest-green Dior skirt suit, conveying to us that the Trump dynasty is far from fading.
The president’s eldest daughter looked every inch the calculated successor to the Trump throne. Her neatly draped neckline, black Dior handbag, and towering heels exuded ambition. The look was classic, but also razor-sharp—like she’d spent the past four years watching Succession on a loop. A few feet away stood Delphine Arnault, CEO of Dior and daughter of one of the richest men in the world, founder and CEO of LVMH, Bernard Arnault, as if to cosign Ivanka’s reentry into the spotlight.
Then, there was Jeff Bezos’ fiance, journalist Lauren Sánchez, arriving in a white Alexander McQueen blazer, no shirt, and a hint of lingerie. Where Melania’s ensemble was buttoned-up perfection, Sánchez’s outfit seemed to have left its decorum at the dry cleaner. Critics labeled the look inappropriate, and if nothing else, it made Melania’s disciplined elegance look downright saintly in comparison. Was Prime same-day delivery not available?
Black and White, but Never Basic
At the inaugural ball, Melania Trump chose simplicity, wearing a strapless off-white silk crepe gown punctuated by two black silk gazar bands. The design, courtesy of her longtime stylist Hervé Pierre, was quietly impressive—a far cry from the bead-and-sequin explosions that often dominate these occasions. As if to advise everyone of her talent to make even the slightest detail stand out, Melania borrowed a 1955 Harry Winston diamond brooch and reimagined it as a choker.
Pierre was thrilled with the collaboration, taking to social media to say, “A simple scribble with a marker on a piece of paper can be the beginning of an idea!” He further exclaimed, “ It was such an honor to create the dress for the First Lady Melania Trump tonight. I can’t thank her enough, it was a wonderful project, a great collaboration as always!”
This isn’t the first time Pierre has been at Melania’s side on a night of political pomp. In 2017, he crafted the cream gown she wore to her husband’s first inaugural ball, a piece that now resides in the Smithsonian’s “First Ladies” exhibit. The Smithsonian tradition, which began in 1912, not only immortalizes the fashion choices of America’s First Ladies but also acknowledges their role as cultural women of their time.
Fashion as Strategy
Melania’s inauguration outfit was perhaps a calculated message. Her fashion choices have always been loaded, by design or by accident. This inauguration was no different. She was polished yet untouchable, commanding yet elusive. In an era when appearances are everything—especially in politics—she showed that her new wardrobe will be her shield, her armor, and her proclamation.
In dignity, indifference, or an icy rebuke, her look did exactly what fashion is supposed to do: it made you think. Whether you saw authority or aloofness in her ensemble, Melania Trump’s wardrobe remains her sharpest tool for shaping her narrative. In a political climate as charged as this one, maybe that’s exactly what she intended.
Photos: MELANIA TRUMP WORLD, IVANKA TRUMP UPDATES, HEVRÉ PIERRE, and ADAM LIPPES (via Instagram)
