For Fendi’s FW24 Menswear collection, Creative Director Silvia Venturini Fendi brings a new attitude to how men can look
The Fendi show stands in an industrial setting, with rows of illuminated seating arranged in the F-form and electronic music that vibrates the walls. The clothes, however, tell a different story. Under the creative direction of Silvia Venturi Fendi, a juxtaposition is revealed, unveiling a collection that not only embraces innovation, but also challenges entrenched norms. This stark difference becomes a focal point, ushering in a new era for the Fendi man.
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For an Italian heritage brand heralded by a descendant of the founder, the collection is more Scottish than Milan. The clothes, in particular, are reworked in feminine silhouettes: soft, flowy, nurturing. It’s these traits of kindness and caring, especially for a collection that looks to be for the outdoors, feel jarring in a way that we don’t always expect men to be—soft, flowy, nurturing.
The color palette adopts the classic tones of beige and gray for the season, yet injects a burst of vibrancy with cooler hues such as green, yellow, and blue. Materials come in the form of mohair, leather and washed denim, with some transformed into complete garments, while others manifest as accents in collars and stitches.
Shorts blur the line with skirts, embracing fluidity over rigid structures. The absence of tight constraints allows for unrestricted comfort and freedom. An unexpected, shimmering shirt dress breaks free from convention. This contemporary shift in menswear signifies an attitude of liberation, a transformation transferred on the runway, and also making waves on red carpets with celebrities and in everyday street styles with everyone else.
After the boom in shoes and the collective embrace of handbags, skirts have become prominent, albeit slowly. The concept of a man in a skirt is becoming normal that a gasp when once seen on a male figure has now become a sigh; not because of disgust, but because you don’t think you can pull it off as well as he does.
Over at shoes and accessories, collaborating with MAD Architects founding partner Ma Yansong, the Peekaboo undergoes a masculine transformation, fixed with varnished aluminum contours. A futuristic sneaker boasts metallic accents that add an edgy vibe to any ensemble.
And is that a bag? No—it’s just speakers. The Fendi x Devialet Mania portable speaker is covered in FF casing that looks every bit of a want so strong, that you’d aim to be a sliver of a molecule only to live inside it.
Feminine shapes confidently redefine traditional masculine identities, emerging as the unexpected spotlight of the collection. The idea that clothes have no gender takes a prominent position, offering an unequivocal perspective. Silvia Venturini Fendi’s approach sets a clear momentum, providing a straightforward expectation of what Fendi’s work represents: an exploration that defies tradition. Where Fendi goes, the man will follow—through the work of a woman.
Photos: FENDI
Featured Image: MILAN FASHION WEEK
