Cartier’s iconic Panthère signature has been continuously reinvented since its first sighting in 1914, and its latest iteration is articulated with poise
The Panthère has served as the unmistakable emblem of the Maison since the first sighting of her distinctive markings on a watch in 1914. Since then, the timeless icon has appeared in a variety of interpretations in Cartier’s classic designs. What makes the symbol of the Panthère so enduring that it has become inseparable from this storied institution?
An artistic representation
The Panthère first appeared on an invitation for a jewelry exhibition commissioned by Louis Cartier. Named “Lady with a Panther”, this print image depicted a woman in a flowing white dress standing with a black panther by her feet. The Panthère’s first full depiction into the form we recognize today was in 1917, appearing on a cigarette case made of diamonds, onyx, and platinum. The creation was to be gifted by Louis Cartier to Belgian jeweler Jeanne Toussaint.
This expression of affection marked the beginning of a symbiosis between the Panthère and Jeanne Toussaint when a couple of years later, Jeanne would order yet another cigarette case that featured the Panthère from Louis, but this time in gold and black Canton enamel. Jeanne would soon become Cartier’s creative director, bringing the animal with her as her personal signature.
A wild evolution
An eccentric and emancipated visionary, Jeanne fleshed out the creature in three dimensions in 1948 with the yellow gold Panther brooch which she created for the Duchess of Windsor, along with a matching pair of earrings that were modified a year later. Whether represented in its entirety or in illustration, the Panthère has since prowled the annals of the Maison. Figurative, graphic, wild—the iconic animal constantly renews itself, adapts jewelry expertise, and expands the repertoire of its design and wear.
An inimitable emblem
Today, the Panthère de Cartier presents itself as a fully articulated sculptural creation. Remarkably supple and sleek, the necklaces and bracelets of this collection house an invisible system that allows them to unfold without revealing a hinge. Taking complete inspiration from Cartier’s emblematic animal, your freest and most fearless side will be displayed in a fabulous tête-à-tête with each piece.
In bringing these pieces to life, the movement of the articulated Panthère necklace and bracelet is made possible by the composition of two different components crossed with two gold blades which are linked to two springs positioned in the heads of the panthers.
With its long, curved body, the Panthère bangle is crafted with yellow gold marked with octagonal black lacquer spots, or white gold paved with diamonds and set with onyx spots. There’s respect for the Panthère image through its craftsmanship. For the versions set with diamonds, each stone is encircled with small metal grains to secure it. Next, using the Cartier “fur” setting, they skilfully cut around the onyx to give the impression of the animal’s silky coat.
Over the course of a century’s worth of collections, the Panthère’s design has continued to transform itself. Cultivating the sophisticated and rebellious nature of each piece with ingenuity, the Panthère’s strength and desirability, inherited from Jeanne Toussaint, are still present in the jewelry to this day.
If you are searching for an icon to wear that holds the prestige, craftsmanship, and style to unleash the feline force within you, there is nothing we could better recommend than the ones cut from the emblem of the Maison.
Discover Panthère de Cartier at Cartier Greenbelt 4, Makati
