Phoebe Philo makes her return in fashion as she debuts her brand this September
It’s the comeback that many fashion enthusiasts have been waiting for the longest time. Ever since she made her exit from Celine in 2018, speculations during those five years as to where British fashion designer Phoebe Philo is heading next or which brand she’ll be taking over.
As of yesterday, all rumors were silenced as a simple Instagram post revealed the debut of Phoebe Philo’s brand in September. Details have yet to be announced but as we wait for the inaugural collection, let’s take a trip down memory lane in the designer’s history and what we’re expecting from her upcoming brand.
The Profile
Born in Paris but moved back to England at the age of 2, the British designer already had an inkling with the world of art and fashion through the career of her mother. An art dealer and graphic designer who contributed to the creation of David Bowie’s Aladdin Sane cover, we can already pinpoint the start of her curiosity.
And just like pieces of a puzzle fitting perfectly together, her parents gifted her a sewing machine on her 14th birthday. At such an early age, Philo began constructing her own clothes and understanding the many techniques of fashion design.
The Maisons
Philo’s journey started at the distinguished Central Saint Martins where she studied fashion design alongside a fellow British designer, Stella McCartney. A year later after her graduation, Philo headed to Paris to join McCartney who was then the creative director of Chloé, while she became her design assistant.
Fast forward to 2001, Philo was then appointed as Chloé’s creative director while McCartney continued on with her own brand. Though her five-year stint with the French houses ended in 2008 when Philo stepped down to attend to her daughter.
Two years later, Philo retired to the fashion world when she accepted LVMH’s offer to succeed Hedi Slimane in the French maison, Céline. She then became the maison’s creative director from 2008 to 2017, the era when Céline’s fashion was described as new and “never had before”.
The Designs
Philo is known for her ultra minimalist and sophisticated design. Always going for constructions that are seemingly simple yet hold such meticulous techniques, silhouettes that are the epitome of laid back chic, as well as carrying an elegant taste in all designs—Philo’s personal taste in fashion was refreshing and timeless amidst the maximalist fashion during the 2010s.
Her creative direction in both Chloé and Céline had such distinct themes despite her maintaining her usual minimalistic approach. A playful and sensual concept took place in Chloee where high-waisted jeans and wedge shoes were showcased. Meanwhile in Céline, the British designer was praised for her timeless yet modernistic approach. Practicality and wearability were the constant two attributes of designs such as the silk pants, cropped jackets, and the well-known Boston tote bag people are still buying up to this day.
The Prediction
Philo’s DNA in design is quite obvious despite the two polar codes of the maison’s she headed before. Her minimalist designs are grounded with such elegance and subtle flair, we won’t be surprised if her brand will streamline new silhouettes with such sophistication and modernity.
Though we have yet to know more details about her brand, her inaugural collection will be up online in September so we’re guessing she’ll be following the standard fashion calendar. Perhaps Spring/Summer clothes will be the first of many but it’ll be done with such exclusivity, not a lot people may not get their hands on the pieces. It only seems fitting to have such limitations with Philo’s covert actions she did in her years in fashion as well as maintaining the ultimate luxury by means of having very few pieces in store.
