Michael Leyva, Avel Bacudio, and Jo Rubio share their insights on crafting traditional Filipino attire from a modern perspective
Designing a traditional dress is an elaborate interaction between the past and today, which Michael Leyva, Jo Rubio, and Avel Bacudio have all executed in their own ways at the State of the National Address (SONA). Leyva mixes traditional fabrics with modern silhouettes, Rubio imbues cultural stories into his designs, and Bacudio adapts heritage weaving techniques with innovative materials. Each designer shares an important assertion of Filipino identity that impacts the future of fashion.
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Honoring Identity Through Innovation
There is often a balance for tradition. For Leyva, the process begins with incorporating Filipino elements, drawing on fabrics like piña and jusi, and using time-honored embroidery techniques such as calado. Yet, he integrates modern silhouettes, detailing, and colors that resonate with his clients’ personal styles. “When you look back 10-20 years from now,” Leyva explains, “it’s still a wearable and desirable piece.”
Rubio echoes this sentiment, weaving Filipino history, art, heritage, and culture into his designs. From native flowers like Ylang Ylang and Sampaguita to the legacy of Filipino National Artists, Rubio’s creations tell a story. “It makes the design more relevant and meaningful. More importantly, it tells a story. As an artist, I always believe that the Filipiniana should be a reflection of who we are as Filipinos.”
Bacudio takes a heritage-focused approach, emphasizing the importance of cultural elements in his designs. “I always think about the heritage and culture. I give back to what made us,” he explains. Bacudio uses traditional weaving methods but presents them in a contemporary context, ensuring that the outfits feel current and relevant.
The Fabric of Filipino Fashion
When it comes to fabric choices, Leyva gravitates towards gazar, silk, and organza, praising their beautiful drape and the way they enhance intricate, hand-beaded details. Rubio enjoys mixing modern fabrics like silks and crepes with indigenous woven materials, creating a blend that sustains the livelihood of weavers and artisans.
Bacudio, in collaboration with the Department of Science and Technology (DOST) and the Philippine Textile Research Institute (PTRI), advocates for Filipino weavers. “It’s all about them,” he says. Bacudio is committed to using innovative materials like banana, piña, and bamboo, which he plans to showcase in a fashion show next year.
Personalized Perfection
Understanding the individual is crucial for all three designers. Leyva emphasizes the importance of collaboration, tailoring each design to reflect the client’s preferences and body type. “I want to ensure the outfit aligns with their personal style while enhancing their comfort and confidence,” he says.
Rubio shares this collaborative spirit, asking many questions to ensure his designs mirror the character and personality of his clients. Open communication and a strong relationship, he believes, are key to creating effective and suitable designs. Bacudio’s approach is similarly inclusive, focusing on creating designs that honor the rich traditions of Filipino craftsmanship while being relevant to contemporary fashion.
Fashion with Purpose
Fashion at the SONA is more than aesthetics; it’s a powerful medium for social and political statements. Leyva views it as a way to convey unity and cultural pride, aiming to celebrate diversity and national identity through his designs. “SONA is also a platform for us Filipino designers to showcase our rich culture and talents.”
Rubio sees the SONA as a platform to showcase Filipino fashion and design, honoring the artisans who dedicate their lives to their craft. From the farmers who plant the Piña to the weavers, embroiderers, beaders, seamstresses, and tailors, he acknowledges the entire creative team behind each Filipiniana outfit. “It’s a whole cycle of goodness,” Rubio reflects.
Bacudio is particularly passionate about using this platform to support local weavers. “Our politicians are bringing back our culture from before,” he notes, expressing his hope for legislation that will support these artisans.
Designers Michael Leyva, Jo Rubio, and Avel Bacudio use their art to make powerful statements about identity, culture, and progress. Their creations adorn the nation’s leaders, adopting genuine Filipino heritage and craftsmanship. Through their work, they remind us that Filipino attire is a celebration of who we are and who we aspire to be.
Photos: MICHAEL LEYVA, JO RUBIO, and AVEL BACUDIO
