An Italian word meaning “again,” Ancora by Gucci is a powerful genesis of Sabato De Sarno’s distinctive vision as the maison’s new creative chief. With Gucci returning to its roots of heritage and luxury, how did the house fall in love with its core identity again?
This fashion feature is an excerpt fron MEGA’s April 2024 Issue
“Ancora,” Italian singer Mina’s voice reverberated as the Spring/Summer 2024 show of Gucci concluded. This iconic 1978 track, lyrics penned by Cristiano Malgioglio, met the musicality of record producer Mark Ronson in this Gucci runway remix—even getting the signature Gucci Rosso Ancora hue on this edition’s album cover.
Creative director Sabato De Sarno has always been keen on including Mina’s song in his debut show under the Italian maison. Ronson, who’s a friend of De Sarno’s, understood how the historic album anchors the narrative of the show. For De Sarno, “ancora” meant a lot of things. It was a deep, intimate story of something lost, or something one still has, that you still want more of. It’s only fitting that it was the Italian pop classic’s words that echoed during this pivotal debut.
De Sarno’s first collection at Gucci marked a complete shift in the maison’s fashion code, especially following Alessandro Michele’s momentous time as creative lead. This season, Gucci is centered on modern day utility, everyday elegance, and quiet confidence.
Down the runway, it’s a story of passion, of seeing red. Appealing to the women of today, De Sarno introduced the house’s oxblood shade as a symbol of all things free, bold, and sexy.
The collection’s striking color palette pays homage to founder Guccio Gucci’s time as a bellboy at London’s Savoy Hotel in 1897, the place that inspired him to establish his own Italian leather goods company that will later on be one of the most prominent fashion houses of the century.
The defining elements of Ancora are structure and color, as seen in floor-length vests, cotton jackets, and wool coats. Cashmere and silk tank tops as well as crystal detailing in fringe skirts, silk dresses, and wool tops added flavor to the collection.
Shiny leather skirts and shorts are also paired with chunky rib sweaters, gabardine jackets, and cabans. It’s also hard to miss the Signoria slingback pumps, Horsebit platform loafers, and Jackie handbags all dipped in the Gucci Rosso Ancora hue.
Michele’s seven-year tenure with Gucci can easily be seen, heard, and experienced in loud moments. It was a fantasy—geeky, freaky, eccentric, contemporary, gender-bending, and even vintage.
But De Sarno’s role now is to trace back the maison to heritage, luxury, and intrigue. His entry marks a reignition of Gucci, especially after the house’s performance decline in markets like China in 2020.
Find out what the future of Gucci looks like in MEGA’s April 2024 issue, now available on Readly, Magzter, Press Reader and Zinio.
Creative Direction by PATRICK TY. Photographed by JHARWIN CASTAÑEDA. Art Direction by JONES PALTENG. Fashion Direction by KAT CRUZ-VILLANUEVA. Styled by BITHIA REYES. Sittings Editor BRIE VENTURA. Hair CATS DEL ROSARIO. Makeup ANGELINE DELA CRUZ. Nails by TRIPLE LUCK BROW & NAIL SALON. Model TAKI SHIMADA. Photographer’s Assistant JULIUS BIEGO.
