Creative Director Sabato De Sarno releases his second menswear collection Gucci for Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025
At Triennale Milano, a summer dream awakes. Gucci and Sabato De Sarno continue simple sophistication with their Spring/Summer 2025 men’s collection. Men cascaded down a spiral staircase, the opening look being a soft counterpart to the iconic Gucci Rosso—this time, a vibrant green hunted in lime, almost like the opposite of its strong womenswear equivalent.
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Complementing De Sarno’s first menswear collection which flourishes in feminine ideals, the new collection sets the scene for ensembles brimming with color, print, and texture. The palette was a burst of light, almost pastel hues: orange, blue, and lavender.
Sheer polos, sleeveless shirts, and multicolor abstract prints dominated the runway, providing a lively contrast to the sleek and shiny pencil bags accompanying many of the looks. Fringe remained a strong component, adding an animated yet suave flicker to the attire.
Leather boxer shorts paired with choker necklaces introduced an intriguing combination of boldness and intimacy, a nod to De Sarno’s knack for pushing boundaries to basics. How simple can the creative director go? Fortunately, he can go any way he wants, as long as he can present his material as if it can be considered new, or at least, look sophisticated.
Light textures featured heavily on the garments, from airy fabrics to a surprise ombré shirt in brown and blue, fascinating with its dynamic movement. Large shirts that look like capelets surround the looks, hiding arms in secret—but there is none, for De Sarnno shows it all. Just look at those shorts: shorter than your usual length. It’s a recurring element from his design wardrobe that reinforced this daring aesthetic, perfect for adopting the carefree spirit of summer and the tropical environment.
Soft accessories finish the looks, with buttery cloud-like attention, taking place in bags; and it seemed to capture this delight. Like food, each piece was both nourishing and indulgent, satisfying the craving for both style and ease. The closing scene, underscored by the upbeat rhythm of a classic tune, encapsulated the collection’s resonant energy, trendy attraction, and the new man.
Sabato De Sarno’s S/S25 collection for Gucci not only builds on his established vision of straightforward style, but also demonstrates his ability to craft pieces that are perfectly suited for sun-shiny weather, especially for a collection made for the warmth. The collection’s energetic colors, spirited designs, and active textures make it an adaptable choice in Gucci’s evolving menswear story, one that seeks out a modern love to a classic wardrobe essential.
Photos and Featured Image: GUCCI
