Shedding the extravagance of the past, Sabato de Sarno’s runway unfolds in an industrial setting and highlights the contemporary masculinity of Gucci for Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear
Gone are the days of flamboyant excess in the House of Gucci. No longer do extreme prints and patterns inundate the senses with an overwhelming array of colors, and the once ubiquitous in-your-face logos that seemed to be embossed upon you in dreams have vanished. “Ancora” may mean “again,” but it can also mean something personal and reflective, an expression of which there is no singular translation. In Sabato de Sarno’s first menswear collection, he may just tell you.
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Structure amidst concrete
Within an abandoned warehouse, marked by its cement flooring and sturdy columns, the runway was illuminated by shafts of pure white light: empty, desolate, bright. Then, Gucci Rosso—the “It” color for the era—comes into the light, as if needed it to breathe like essential air to exist, almost like how we need it to breathe. It was, naturally, on the opening look; the deep and rich shade taking in the bag, gloves, and the slight line behind the trenchcoat. It was a sorbet in clothing—a necessity, a desire, an invitation to salivate over its presence.
Strutting onto the runway, models flaunted meticulously tailored suits in shades of ebony, sand, and ivory, cloaked in leather jackets so structured they could give this warehouse’s architectural blueprint a run for its money. Splashes of color brought vibrancy to various items, from gloves to duffle bags. Bold metallic chain necklaces commanded attention, alongside sparkling neckpieces that seamlessly blended with casual looks; a fluent conversation in the language of Gen Z.
The iconic Gucci Web design, though understated, subtly made its presence felt. When it did speak, it resonated with triumph, compelling observers to do nothing but listen—or rather, watch. Holding our gaze, much like the colored and relaxed button-downs, not in the conventional white, but in the captivating Gucci Rosso. Delicious violet and lavender hues added a mesmerizing touch to the color palette, complemented by the green that danced with the “It” color.
From ground up
While trench coats and trousers are customary staples in a Fall/Winter collection, especially for men, de Sarno’s presentation takes a unique styling approach. Trench coats stand-alone, devoid of accompanying shirts, eliminating the undershirt layer. Some are even sleeveless. However, the focal point remains unwavering—the bags. Whether crossbody, duffle, or top handle, the bag is a must in a menu that will soon be on the waitlist.
Trousers, whether flared and relaxed or oversized, embrace a distinctive flair. When they aren’t oversized, they snugly hug the wearers’ legs. At ground level, the Horsebit loafer shoes, embossed and crystal clear, make a bold statement. Elevated by an added platform, these footwear wonders draw attention with a subtle metallic-framed logo near the tip; a stylish nod to the iconic Gucci aesthetic, made new again. That’s what “ancora” means, anyway—again.
Breaking dawn
Then, the corpcore-encoded collection ignites a spark that pierces the dark. It’s like those post-work hours—the shedding of the day’s burdens, a sigh of relief, and the refreshing wipe of sweat. This is the segment where once-dimmed and blurry-eyed gazes awaken: piercing, intimate, and primal.
In the second act, the runway unveils bejeweled trouser legs and sparkly tote bags, hinting that the night needs light at this time. It’s a celebration of sensuality that emerges after a day’s toil in the realm of manhood, a time when the patriarchy is urged to dial down its dominance.
Even the inclusion of Lucky Love’s “Masculinity” as the background track seems to encapsulate the essence of the collection. It raises questions every man ponders at some point: “Do I walk like a boy? / Do I speak like a boy? / Do I stand like a boy? / Do I kiss like a boy?” progressing to deeper introspection with “What about my masculinity? / What is wrong with my body? / Am I not enough?” culminating in a defiant declaration, “Who gives you the right to run the rules?”—a powerful stance in the ongoing dialogue about masculinity.
Masculinity, remodeled
The collection, in tone and style, is similar to the womenswear counterpart: structured yet free-flowing, smooth yet accented, aspirational yet enriching. This iteration, however, is observed through the complex lens of manhood and masculinity. But what defines masculinity when there exists no standardized definition beyond a reflection of societal norms? In the case for de Sarno, masculinity is contemporary. The creative director skillfully captures masculinity in a naturally progressive light, injecting a much-needed dose of positivity into the discourse.
In Gucci’s expansive history under the exciting rule of Sabato de Sarno, the focus transcends the need for camp and attention, and instead steers towards a journey of luxurious appreciation. Except, of course, when those trousers are adorned with a luminous shimmer, embellished with gems so captivating that averting your gaze becomes a challenging feat. In those moments, by all means, indulge in the spectacle.
Photos and Featured Image: GUCCI
